The amatriciana (in Roman matriciana due to apheresis) is a condiment for pasta, typical of inns and trattorias. The ingredients are: bacon, cheese and pommidoro.
It takes its name from Amatrice, a town in the province of Rieti
The first written record of this dish comes to us from chef Francesco Leonardi that, in 1816, served them to the court of the Pope.In the ‘800, in Ponte district (Navona Sant’Angelo Bridge area) there was an alley called de ‘Matriciani (after 1870’ vicolo degli Amatriciani) and a square (now Piazza Lancellotti) where Grici (Sabini), selling bread, meats and cheeses of the Sibillini mountains; then they were standing near a tavern called The Amatriciano.
This sauce is the son of the then gricia (or Grisha), spaghetti or macaroni seasoned with oil, pepper and barbozzo or pillow, born in a village called Grisciano Rieti. What is certain is that the addition of tomato sauce dates from the late seventeenth century. The first written record of the use of the amatriciana sauce for pasta is found in the cookbook of the Roman chef Francesco Leonardi, who served at the court of the Pope. It was a high-class shot: the manner of Matriciani Leonardi imposed a popular dish at a banquet at the Quirinal Palace in honor of Emperor Francis I of Austria, organized by Pope Pius VII in April 1816. Roman by birth, Leonardi had worked in the courts in France with Richelieu, as well as in Poland, Turkey, Germany and England, until arriving, with the role of chef at the court of Catherine II of Russia. In 1790 he wrote an encyclopedia of cooking in 7 volumes, L’Apicius Modern or the art of preparing every kind of food.
Leonardi, who wanted to be enlightened and modern (in the sense of giving a scientific aspect to his work) rivals Carême (which collides in lunches during the Congress of Vienna) and Alexandre Dumas, drawing up a list of 3,000 recipes with stories and tips . It was the first chef to use stably tomatoes and boasts as its own with the invention of the Neapolitan classic combination of pasta with tomato sauce. Its sauce, made with tomatoes without seeds and simmer made by adding onions, celery, garlic, basil, is still unchanged. Certainly he made about amatriciana, transforming a plate populate like Grice in a dish fashionable. His version includes the macaroni, the lard of Amatrice, pommidori, onion and pecorino. Since then and until the beginning of ‘900, the popularity of this dish was undisputed in Rome, so much so that several hosts took the nickname Matriciani to indicate the profession. It is a dish so famous that in 2002 even the chef Ferran Adrià has included it in the menu of El Bulli.
The simplicity of the ingredients of this dish, now become famous in the culinary field, it is so sweetly contained in the verses that the poet Charles Baccari (1878 – 1978) dedicated to him.
… E li tra gli armenti, da magica mano, nascesti gioiosa nel modo più strano la pecora mite e il bravo maiale, donarono insieme formaggio e guanciale
“LA MATRICIANA MIA” DER SOR ALDO FABRIZI
Soffriggete in padella staggionata,
cipolla, ojo, zenzero infocato,
mezz’etto de guanciale affumicato
e mezzo de pancetta arotolata.
Ar punto che ‘sta robba è rosolata,
schizzatela d’aceto profumato
e a fiamma viva, quanno è svaporato,
mettete la conserva concentrata.
Appresso er dado che jè dà sapore,
li pommidori freschi San Marzano,
co’ un ciuffo de basilico pe’ odore.
E ammalappena er sugo fa l’occhietti,
assieme a pecorino e parmigiano,
conditece de prescia li spaghetti.